The literary phrase “water, water everywhere” rings true about Seattle in so many ways. The city is defined by its water everywhere, from houseboat living to waterfront dining, and when romping around aquatic playgrounds, fishing lakes, and city-park waterfalls — not to mention when watching home-bound salmon return to local streams after years away. It’s that magnificent salmon that forms the core of Seattle’s seafood identity, with traditional salmon-cooking traditions handed down from generations of Pacific Northwest Native culture.
The salmon-centric culture of Seattle fascinated me when I first moved to the Emerald City — and continues to do so decades later. As you can imagine, diners flock to classic salmon-centric restaurants, seafood shacks, alder-smoked salmon houses, lakeside salmon spots, and a string of salmon-grilling cafes and fine dining destinations on Piers 54 and 57 at downtown’s Elliot Bay.
As a big fan of both salmon and dining out, I’ve enjoyed many of these cultural culinary experiences over the years. Here are a few that currently draw me back over and over again, grounding me in the deep essence of Seattle living.
Ivar’s Fish Bar at Pier 54
I’m personally convinced that Ivar’s Fish Bar on Pier 54 earns a solid spot on any list declaring the best Seattle spots for salmon. That’s partly because it was my earliest eating experience when moving to the Pacific Northwest — but it’s truly the most authentically casual place imaginable for experiencing the sea-swarthy culinary vibe of this high-tech, water-centric city. After all these years, it’s still my favorite place to pick up fresh salmon while walking the downtown waterfront.
Rather than a sit-down indoor restaurant, Ivar’s on the pier is a walk-up fish bar, founded by renowned local character and folk singer Ivar Haglund in 1938. The menu centers on fish in general, but favorites are the fish and chips with wild Alaskan salmon, plus the renowned Alaska smoked salmon chowder, offered by the cup, bowl, tanker, or bread bowl. The Ivar’s collection of restaurants has expanded across the Puget Sound area, including additional fish bar and seafood bar setups. But this original one still cradles the quintessential city energy with outdoor tables, briny bay breezes, buskers singing for their supper, and fishing boats and ferries coming and going.
When my son was younger, I’d gather up the neighborhood kids and head downtown for salmon or cod and chips at Ivar’s — but the real treat for them was the “chips” part, since seagulls are more than happy to waddle into the dining area for french-fry handouts at the slightest indication of willing human collaborators. It’s a vibrant spot for fresh, no-fuss salmon dining, and for visitors getting to know the waterfront area. For more formal, sit-down salmon dining, the Ivar’s Acres of Clams restaurant is right next door.